Friday, 6 July 2012

Day 24 - Kruja (last day in Albania!)

I had my breakfast at the hotel & later returned to my room to make use of the free Wi-Wi.

Since arriving in Kruja I have decided it is quite a noisy place with youngsters driving their fast cars up & down the steep hill at night! It is also a place where weddings appear to be popular, with plenty of loud music being played late into the night. No wonder most visitors just come for a day trip!

I finally checked out & made my way to the downstairs restaurant to setup my laptop, so I could kill a few more hours! I ordered some lunch of risotto which was very nice. I managed to pre-order a taxi with one of the waiters at a price of 2200 Lek. I finally left for the airport at 4pm. (The turn off for the airport on the main road was only 2 miles, so I assume if I'd taken a minibus to Tirana I could have been dropped here & walked the two miles to the airport.)

On arrival at the airport I was a little disheartened at paying 260 Lek for a warm can of cola!

Thanks Albania for a great time!



Souvenirs from Albania!




Thursday, 5 July 2012

Day 23 - Kruja

I slept quite well last night, considering there was a wedding party with loud music being played well into the early hours! I made my way downstairs & onto the balcony for my breakfast, which was actually quite good & served with a large espresso.

I decided to going hunting for some souvenirs (including a rug) in the bazaar. I slowly made my way up to the castle & decided souvenir hunting was very tiring & so decided to have a rest at a nearby restaurant. I settled for the place called 'Alba' & had some ice-cream, a slice of baklava & Kabuni which was all very nice.



The Bazaar in Kruja


A good book & great food!



After my snack I made my way to the Ethnographic Museum (300 Lek) which was very interesting. There was a sign saying 'No Photographs Allowed' (& even cctv cameras in every corner) but all the other tourists were taking photos, so I did! The museum shows how life was 100 years ago in Kruja. (It is located in a traditional house built in the middle of the 18th century AD, by Kapllan Pashe Toptani.)



Ethnographic Museum in Kruja


Ethnographic Museum in Kruja


Ethnographic Museum in Kruja


Ethnographic Museum in Kruja


Ethnographic Museum in Kruja



After my visit to the museum I made my way through the bazaar again & bought one of the ubiquitous ash tray bunkers! (600 Lek). I then visited one of carpet shops I'd been to earlier to purchase a rug. After a bit of haggling I finally bought one for 7000 Lek (1m x 1.5m)




Carpet shop in the Bazaar at Kruja


Carpet shop in the Bazaar at Kruja


Carpet shop in the Bazaar at Kruja - 'Weaving the Batch'


Buying bread in Kruja




I went out in the evening & walked up to the castle again so as to watch the sun come down. On my return I bought some food to take back to my hotel.




Sun setting over Kruja





Wednesday, 4 July 2012

Day 22 - Tirana to Kruja

I did not sleep very well last night as the guesthouse had some very noisy neighbours with an even noisier dog! The dog barked & barked in the earlier hours of the night & then constantly from 6am!

I decided to get out of bed & hoped breakfast would cheer me up. I made my way out into the courtyard where there was a table with a croissant (in a packet), an orange, some milk & a box of cornflakes. The young lady who I'd meet yesterday appeared & then soon disappeared. I then realised all I had to eat the cornflakes with was a cup & saucer! I was also expecting my host to return with some coffee or tea, but she never did? As I was suffering with an almighty headache I just left & found the nearest café for a much needed espresso!

After packing my things I headed off to the north of Tirana (Zogu I Zi) to catch the bus to take me to Kruja, (as I really just wanted to relax for a couple of days before flying home). When I arrived at the bus stop I sat for a while outside the nearby café with some of the locals & actually missed the bus! Luckily it wasn't long before another arrived (12 noon / 60 Lek). I initially thought it would go all the way to Kruja, but it stopped at Fushe-Kruja (after 45 minutes). I just jumped off with all the other passengers & quickly boarded a nearby waiting minibus which was going to Kruja. It was only a 10 minute drive, when I arrived I paid the driver 100 Lek, (I didn't get or expect any change).




Tanners Bridge in Tirana



I walked up the steep road to the Panorama Hotel & was soon shown a room with air conditioning for 20 Euros (no balcony); I was happy with this & settled in.

I later walked through the bazaar & was quite amazed with the amount of tourists; I had never seen so many before since arriving in Albania! I decided to visit the restaurant at the top end of the bazaar (on left) & ordered veal which wasn't particularly nice, the service wasn't particularly great either!

After lunch I walked up to the castle & soaked up the views. I began to wonder if I had arrived in Kruja a day too early!




View of Kruja & its castle


Kruja


Inside Kruja Castle



I went out in the evening & walked through the bazaar again as a few of the shops were still open. I got talking with a young local in one of the shops who told me he had travelled around Albania (10 days) with two Americans, acting as a guide. He seemed a little surprised when I mentioned I'd been travelling on my own! He also informed me there was no minibus direct from Kruja to the airport (only taxis), & I would have to travel back to Tirana & catch a minibus. Bad planning on my part then!

I had my evening meal at my hotel which was a little disappointing.



Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Day 21 - Shkodër to Tirana

After a long sleep in, in my luxurious room I was feeling a lot better & was looking forward to my breakfast. I stepped outside & I was soon approached by the chef who asked if I would like my breakfast outside on the veranda, I agreed. He soon delivered a wonderful breakfast which included an omelette & some cheese with figs & lashings of tea.

I finally checked out just before noon & walked into the centre of town (Radio Shkodra) to find a minibus to take me to Tirana. As soon as I approached the main junction I spotted a minibus with 'Tirana' on the front window (or rather the driver spotted me first!) & so I jumped on board, where there were already a couple of female passengers. Before heading off, we naturally had to drive around the block a few times to look for more passengers!

It wasn't long after we left when we approached one of the many police roadside speed check points. The driver was clearly speeding as he had to break hard when he first spotted the policeman! Unfortunately the policeman flagged him down! There was an almighty shouting match, & the driver was taken out of the minibus for another chat on the roadside before finally being allowed back in his minibus! The policeman's hand gestures & facial expressions were quite comical really!

I arrived in Tirana at about 2pm at the Zog I Zi junction in the north of the town. I paid the driver 400 Lek, (this is what one of the female passengers had paid when she had jumped off a little earlier). I think the driver may have asked/tried for more, however as I gave him 4x100 Lek coins I think he was stumped!

I was happy to walk into town with my backpack & made my way to Tanners Bridge to take a few photographs. I certainly noticed the increase of people & traffic in Tirana! I decided to look for the Hotel called 'Kalaja', but as I was walking along George W. Bush Rd (North of the Lana River) I spotted another hotel ('Artik'?). As I approached the main door I was greeted by a lady who very kindly told me it was very expensive & suggested I try the place just around the corner! I walked just a few yards with her before we arrived at 'Andrea’s House' (Jeronim De Rada Rd) where I was greeted by a young lady who spoke very good English. I was shown a room, which was very nice (it had an art deco feel about it), & even came with its own kitchen! It did not have air conditioning but I thought the fee of 20 Euros with breakfast was not a bad price for the centre of Tirana.



The multi-coloured buildings of Tirana


Tanners Bridge in Tirana is an 18th century Ottoman period stone footbridge (bad timing with car!)


Graffiti in Tirana



I later went for a walk around Skanderbeg Square & soaked up the atmosphere. I then grabbed a donor kebab from one of the many fast food places, followed by a lovely ice cream! Here I decided I couldn't really be bothered to see any more of Tirana, (I think I was just a little tired after all my travelling) & decided I would head to Kruja in the morning.




The National Historical Museum in Tirana - Built in 1981


Skanderbeg Square in Tirana


Tirana


The Mosque of Et'hem Bey (18th century) in Tirana


Man sat outside the Mosque of Et'hem Bey in Tirana



I later walked south of the Lana River & visited the Pyramid, which was once a museum to Enver Hoxha's life. It is clearly now just a crumbling wreck! When I arrived there were kids climbing the top & then running back down, which made for some very interesting photographs! I ended my evening at Mother Teresa Square before heading back to my guest house with a quick visit to a nearby supermarket to buy some much needed deodorant!



The Pyramid building in Tirana


The Pyramid building in Tirana


The Pyramid building in Tirana



Monday, 2 July 2012

Day 20 - Thethi to Shkodër

During the night I felt really bad & was violently sick in the toilet! I decided to stay outside my room & sit in the fresh air for a while. Later, one of the young brothers & his grandfather offered me some water & coke, which helped a little. However, after returning to my room I later had to get up again & dash to the toilet!

After a dreadful night, I awoke at about 7:30am & told Naim all about it, although he clearly heard most of it! I assumed it must have been something I had eaten last night, I did eat a lot of cheese? Naim & I decided to walk to the next door bar called 'Gurra' for a coffee. I told Naim I wanted to travel to Shkodër today & so he asked the bar owner to make some enquiries. I was soon informed there was a minibus at 2pm & it would pick me up outside the bar. The fare would be a massive 1000 Lek!

I didn't really fancy eating anything but Naim suggested I try the local honey. We walked back to the guest house & I was soon presented with some bread & honey & a large pot of tea, which did make me feel a bit better. Naim said he had to return to Valbona, so I wished him a safe journey & we said our goodbyes.

I just about had enough energy to wonder around Thethi again, & so visited the old church & the lock in tower again. I also walked alongside the Shala River & crossed the make shift bridge made from two very large pipes! I was really still too tired & ill to do anything else, so I returned to my guest house & had a shower. I later checked out at 12 noon, & headed back to the nearby bar to wait for the minibus to take me to Shkodër. (The guest house charged me 20 Euros for everything, which I was happy with.)



The lock in tower in Thethi


Thethi


The Shala River (& foot bridge!) in Thethi


The Shala River in Thethi


Thethi



At the bar there was a young lad who spoke very good English (as they all do in Thethi!). He was currently on his summer holidays & helping out, (apparently he was a very good footballer playing at national level!) He took a phone call whilst I was sat waiting, regarding the minibus to Shkodër. Apparently the regular minibus had mechanical problems, but I had nothing to worry about as there would be another one arriving instead! (There is a yellow minibus which was the one broken & another which is orange, which is in much better condition & has a faster driver, so I was told!)

Just after 2pm the minibus arrived & I was soon on my way to Shkodër. In the passenger seat was the local man I'd met yesterday (with Naim) at the mountainside café! No doubt he was stocking up with more supplies of beer in Shkodër! All the rest of the passengers appeared to be from the Czech Republic, including a young couple & their son. After leaving Thethi we stopped at a nearby guest house & it soon became obvious this is where the young Czech couple had stayed & we were here to pick up their 3 bicycles & a huge amount of luggage!

At the guest house there was a lot of discussion between the Czech couple, the guest house owner & the driver. A young girl later came out of the guest house & was able to translate & help out. Apparently another minibus driver had brought them to Thethi & charged them 6000 Lek, but had also agreed to pick them up again & take them to Shkodër. The driver clearly had no intentions of returning & had just ripped them off. I later learned the couple had visited Albania before & decided to return as they loved the country so much.

When we finally set off again, I was soon amazed at how bad the road was out of Thethi leading to Boga. The driver was indeed a very good driver, when he was confronted with oncoming traffic he had to reverse quite some distance back down the mountain very skillfully. He was also very well known, as every person he passed he had to stop & have a chat! Once we reached the summit (& before the descent into Boga) we stopped which allowed all of us to get out of the minibus & take some photographs which was great, (although I did pay 1000 Lek!)



Reaching the summit over Thethi & heading down towards Boga


The road down to Boga (from Thethi)


Looking back over towards Thethi



On the descent I was again impressed with the driver's skills as he negotiated the treacherous hairpin bends. When we reached Boga we stopped at the local café so we all could have a drink. Some of the Czechs had their own cars parked nearby & so continued their own journey through Albania. After a 30 minute stop, the young Czech couple & I boarded the minibus again. Back on the road the driver continued to stop at everybody he passed to have a chat, I was ill & just wanted my bed!

When we reached Kopliku the Czech couple (with their young child) jumped off & I helped them unload their bikes. They told me they had visited Albania 3 years ago & were re-visiting all the guest houses again!

By the time I reached Shkodër it was about 7:00pm. I was dropped off in the Dobrac area in the north of Shkodër. My plan was to head towards 'Hapat e Lehte' guest house, (near 'Tradita' guest house were I'd stayed a few days earlier). By the time I reached the centre of town I was getting quite tired & so visited one of the hotels near the Piazza Park. Inside the lobby were three Americans who were in Albania for a film shoot! The man at the reception said the hotel was fully booked, but could fix me up with a room nearby for 10 Euros! As I was still a bit ill I asked if it had air conditioning, which he said it had. However it later transpired it did not & so I declined his offer as I really needed to pamper myself!

Back on the hunt for 'Hapat e Lehte' guest house, I was really struggling (& began to regret turning down the budget room earlier!) A local man having a drink with his friends offered to help, he knocked on one of the doors close to where the guest house was supposed to be located. A lady soon appeared to say the guest house was now closed down! I decided to head to 'Tradita' where I had stayed a few days earlier. I paid another 30 Euros for the pleasure, & this time my room had three beds & a fridge!

I plan to enjoy my breakfast in the morning & check out at 12 noon & catch a minibus to Tirana!


Sunday, 1 July 2012

Day 19 - Valbona to Thethi

I had a great breakfast at my guesthouse, before paying my bill which included the fee for my guide. Naim (the young guy I'd met working in the restaurant yesterday) was waiting outside. I said my farewells to the old lady who had looked after me, & Naim & I finally set off at 7am.

Naim & I soon got chatting & I learned he had spent 6 years travelling around Europe & had spent a considerable amount of time in England! He was currently studying Leisure & Tourism at university. As we were walking through the valley it was quite clear Naim knew most of the locals as he exchanged quite a few words with many we past! After about an hour & a half we stopped at the newly built restaurant (Fushe-Gjeza). Here we met one of Naim's friends & we all sat down & had a coffee together (Naim & his friend also had a raki!) After a nice long break we set off again & I was soon amazed by the open dry landscape & the mountains ahead of us, with the path in the distance we were about to follow.



Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi



We soon reached Rragam which is where the trail really begins; here we stopped & had a chat with one of the locals. After Rragam we continued through a pine forest which was very pleasant to walk through, & stopped again for another rest. I had a bite to eat & Naim just had a cigarette! After the pine forest the hike became a little more steep & our next stop was the source of the Valbona River, which was a great place to relax & fill our bottles.

We were soon on our way again, & it was wonderful to see the sign for Thethi (4 km). From here I could see the path slowly descended. After about 2 km, we reached a hut/café where a local man had set up a place to sell drinks! It was quite an amazing place; apparently the man lives in Thethi & makes his living selling drinks up the mountain! Naim & I had a beer each (150 Lek). After setting off again, it wasn't too long before we were greeted by a local man on his mule coming up the mountain carrying a crate of beer to take to the nearby hut/café!




Rragam - Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


 Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi (Looking down at the path we had just left behind)


Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


Downhill from here :-) Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


A café in the mountains! Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


A café in the mountains! Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


A fridge in the mountains! Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi


More beer being delivered to the café! Hiking along the Valbona Pass to Thethi



We finally reached Thethi by about 3pm, (we did stop a few times & my backpack was a little on the heavy side!) Naim recommended we stay at the guest house called 'Terhorja' (first or second on left as you walk into Thethi from Valbona) which charged 15 Euros for a bed & breakfast. It's here we met another of Naim’s friends, a local tourist guide who was also a free climber. He was currently looking after a small group of Czech tourists. Whilst our room was being prepared I decided to take a wonder around Thethi whilst Naim had a drink with his friend.



The primary school in Thethi


The church in Thethi -1892


The lock in tower in Thethi


Thethi is beautiful!


The church in Thethi -1892


Thethi


Thethi


In the evening Naim & I had a lovely meal at the guest house. It was a very friendly family run place, with a couple of wonderful young brothers who spoke perfect English & were very helpful. After our evening meal we both walked to the nearby restaurant to watch the European Cup final between Spain & Italy. There was quite a big crowd, including the American tourists I'd first met crossing Lake Koman! I don't think the Albanians were too impressed with Spain beating Italy 4 - 0!