Friday 22 June 2012

Day 10 - Pogradeci to Elbasani

I had my morning coffee opposite the Orthodox Cathedral, (which is actually a nice spot to relax & watch the world go by). I then walked over to where all the minibuses were located & realised most seemed to be going to Korça. One of the drivers suggested I walk around the corner (which would be Kajo Karafili Rd I think?) & I should be able to find a minibus for Elbasani. Soon enough I was approached by a driver & I threw my backpack in the back of the minibus. I could see I was the only passenger & so crossed the road for another coffee (where the 'shoe shiners' work). I was invited to join a crowd already sat & we all had a chat which was great fun.

After my second coffee I crossed back over the road towards my waiting minibus, whereby another driver came over & asked me to take my backpack to his minibus! I finally ended up leaving Pogradeci at about 7:45am. There was initially only myself & two ladies but we did pickup other passengers along the way. I arrived in Elbasani at about 9:30am. When I jumped off the minibus some of the passengers seemed a little surprised, I got the impression they were wondering why I wanted to visit Elbasani? I gave the driver a 500 lek note, but he then asked for another 200 lek. A young student guy offered his help & so I assume this was the correct price?

The young student guy seemed to want to help me around in Elbasani. He's English was quite good, he said he was grateful just to be able to speak with somebody from England (as he would like to visit one day). He escorted me to the Skampa Hotel which is where I'd planned to stay. They were only wanting 10 Euros (I later realised this did not include air conditioning!). After I settled in & had a cold shower I went downstairs to the bar where I'd arranged to meet the young student guy for a drink. He had an hour to kill whilst he had to wait for his next bus to Tirana where he was studying. We chatted about where I'd been already in Albania & were I was planning on going next. We exchanged email addresses & later said our goodbyes.

I was keen to exchange some English currency & so popped into the local Tirana Bank, but the girl behind the counter told me they didn't accept English currency! When I informed her I had exchanged some sterling in the Tirana Bank in Saranda a week ago without any problems she did not have an answer? A little perplexed I just walked out. A few yards further along the road I spotted another bank & so I tried again. They were more than happy to oblige! The girl behind the counter was very charming & we had a good old laugh about it all, she insisted I go out & enjoy all my lek in Albania!



The Clock Tower in Elbasani -1899


With a pocket full of lek I then headed for the restaurant called 'Aurora' (mentioned in my guidebook as a great place to eat). I made my way to the upstairs terrace before being told if I wanted to eat I would have to sit downstairs! I decided to leave & head for 'Real Scampis' where I was greeted by IIir Kamani (I know this as he later presented me with his business card!) IIir was the waiter & I told him I wanted to try something local to Elbasani. He recommended 'Tave Kosi' which is a kind of soufflé with lamb underneath (served with a Greek salad). It was lovely, although I did think the Greek salad was a little bland. The meal cost 1150 lek in total (with a coke) which was a little expensive, however the restaurant was quite posh! IIir was very keen to offer his services as a tour guide, & informed me he charges 20 Euros an hour, which seemed a lot to me. I declined his offer as I was happy just to take a look around Elbasani myself.



'Tave Kosi' in Elbasani


After my wonderful lunch I ventured into the 'Old town' & took some photographs of the old buildings & the very old mosque & church. I later headed to the bus station to find out about a bus to Berati in the morning. I happened to spot a bus with a Berati sign with some locals standing next to it, so I enquired. A very friendly young local gave me the times for the morning. The first one leaves at 6am (which I think I will get), & if not the one after this will be at 8am, apparently the journey only takes 2 hours.



The Old Town of Elbasani


St Mary's Church in the Old Town of Elbasani


A fast food shop in Elbasani



I later grabbed an ice-cream (ice-cream in Albania is amazing!) Afterwards I popped into one of the many casino/café bars & was a little shocked when I entered. It was like walking into Fred Flintstones house! The décor was a 'cave like' transformation using plastic moulding. (The ice-cream shop & café are along the Qemal Stafa Rd, east of the clock tower, a little way past the statue of Kristoforidhi.)



Me in a funky bar in Elbasani!


I decided to stay in my hotel for the evening (I plan to be up at 5am) & watch the football & use their Wi-Fi in the lobby. The hotel restaurant (called 'Colour') only served cake & drinks, but a young waiter suggested he could order some kebabs for me. (I had to order two as they would not deliver one.) After over an hour of waiting I decided to order a large slice of cake & a coffee. I never did find out what had happened to my kebabs!

Before heading to bed, I had a look around the building which was part of my hotel & realised it incorporated many other businesses including Scampa TV! I also discovered the main drag outside the building appears to be used as a speed track by the young locals!




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