Unfortunately when I arose this morning nobody was around to cook my breakfast, only the night porter who could not speak any English! I just left & walked around the corner, where the minibus would be to take me to Koman.
The minibus was already waiting & the driver was sat having a coffee so I joined him. We eventually left Shkodër at 6:50am (400 Lek). We stopped a few times to take on more passengers & also to pickup an almighty large reel of plastic tubing that had to be tied to the back of the minibus!
I arrived at Koman at about 8:30am where there were already a few other people waiting for the boat including a group of American tourists. There were also a few local boats which appeared to be ferrying people across the lake. I decided to visit the nearby café (the one at the top) & was a little shocked at being charged 100 Lek for a coffee! (Normal price is 50 Lek).
The boat arrived at 9:15am & I climbed on board with the Americans & quite a few locals, (I was expecting a slightly bigger boat). All the luggage was stored at the front, & most of the passengers sat inside, whereas I chose to stay outside on the deck where the Americans seemed to favour also. The fare was 500 Lek.
The boat left at 9:30am & it was an amazing journey going through the gorges as we criss-crossed along the lake. It was also very entertaining watching the locals boarding & leaving the boat, like the man dressed in a suit stood at the edge of the lake waiting to be picked up, & the local off loading his motorbike! Most of the time there was never any indication as to where these locals were going to or coming from, as you hardly ever saw any houses.
It took just over 3 hours to arrive at Fierzë, where there was a minibus already waiting to pickup travellers. I was one of the first to jump on board, & soon after so did the Americans. Shortly into the drive it became apparent one of the American tourists could speak Albanian as she soon started to have a long discussion with the driver. I initially thought the minibus was only going to stop at Barram Curri (which is where I was going to spend the night) but I soon realised it was going all the way to Valbona, so I stayed on board with the Americans. Once we passed Barram Curri the road became very tough going but the views were amazing, & the river below was stunning. We finally reached Valbona after about 90 minutes of driving, where we all then jumped off the minibus & paid the driver 400 Lek. All the Americans headed off to a nearby restaurant, I decided to walk through the Valbona.
I wasn't sure whether to pitch my tent or look for some accommodation, but after walking for about 15 minutes I came across the sign for 'Quku i Valbona' guest house & so decided to check it out. Before I reached the house a passing car stopped & a man asked if I was looking for accommodation (his English was very good). He offered me a room for the night (this being 'Quku i Valbona') for 15 Euros (with breakfast), & suggested I could pay 2 Euros to pitch my tent. We said our goodbyes & I continued to walk to the guest house. On arrival I was greeted by a women (who again spoke very good English) & when I mentioned I had been offered 15 Euros for the night, she seemed a little shocked? She said she would have to speak with her Mother, however after some discussion 15 Euros was agreed. (I later learned the man I had met in the car was her brother.)
After settling in I asked if there was any chance of some food, as I was starving! I was soon presented with some lovely soup & salad by the Mother of the household. Her daughter (who had greeted me) was now living in England & was back in Albania visiting, & her brother was the boyfriend of the American women on my minibus who had spoken fluent Albanian! During my meal I discussed my plans to hike over to Thethi & asked if they thought I really needed a guide. They seemed to think I would & suggested I should speak with the brother of the household.
After my meal I ventured out & walked along the main road through Valbona (in the direction of Theti) for about an hour & was truly amazed by the landscape. I filled my bottle with the crystal clear cold water from the Valbona River.
I finally headed back to my room for some much needed sleep as it had been quite a long day, what with two bus rides, a boat ride & a small hike!
The minibus was already waiting & the driver was sat having a coffee so I joined him. We eventually left Shkodër at 6:50am (400 Lek). We stopped a few times to take on more passengers & also to pickup an almighty large reel of plastic tubing that had to be tied to the back of the minibus!
Shkodër to Koman by minibus
I arrived at Koman at about 8:30am where there were already a few other people waiting for the boat including a group of American tourists. There were also a few local boats which appeared to be ferrying people across the lake. I decided to visit the nearby café (the one at the top) & was a little shocked at being charged 100 Lek for a coffee! (Normal price is 50 Lek).
Locals waiting to travel across Lake Koman
Locals about the travel across Lake Koman
Locals travelling across Lake Koman
The boat arrived at 9:15am & I climbed on board with the Americans & quite a few locals, (I was expecting a slightly bigger boat). All the luggage was stored at the front, & most of the passengers sat inside, whereas I chose to stay outside on the deck where the Americans seemed to favour also. The fare was 500 Lek.
My boat to take me across Lake Koman to Fierzë
Travelling across Lake Koman
The boat left at 9:30am & it was an amazing journey going through the gorges as we criss-crossed along the lake. It was also very entertaining watching the locals boarding & leaving the boat, like the man dressed in a suit stood at the edge of the lake waiting to be picked up, & the local off loading his motorbike! Most of the time there was never any indication as to where these locals were going to or coming from, as you hardly ever saw any houses.
Travelling across Lake Koman
Passengers along Lake Koman
Passengers along Lake Koman
Passengers along Lake Koman
Travelling across Lake Koman
Passengers along Lake Koman
Arrival at Fierzë
I wasn't sure whether to pitch my tent or look for some accommodation, but after walking for about 15 minutes I came across the sign for 'Quku i Valbona' guest house & so decided to check it out. Before I reached the house a passing car stopped & a man asked if I was looking for accommodation (his English was very good). He offered me a room for the night (this being 'Quku i Valbona') for 15 Euros (with breakfast), & suggested I could pay 2 Euros to pitch my tent. We said our goodbyes & I continued to walk to the guest house. On arrival I was greeted by a women (who again spoke very good English) & when I mentioned I had been offered 15 Euros for the night, she seemed a little shocked? She said she would have to speak with her Mother, however after some discussion 15 Euros was agreed. (I later learned the man I had met in the car was her brother.)
After settling in I asked if there was any chance of some food, as I was starving! I was soon presented with some lovely soup & salad by the Mother of the household. Her daughter (who had greeted me) was now living in England & was back in Albania visiting, & her brother was the boyfriend of the American women on my minibus who had spoken fluent Albanian! During my meal I discussed my plans to hike over to Thethi & asked if they thought I really needed a guide. They seemed to think I would & suggested I should speak with the brother of the household.
Great food in the Valbona Valley (My guest house)
After my meal I ventured out & walked along the main road through Valbona (in the direction of Theti) for about an hour & was truly amazed by the landscape. I filled my bottle with the crystal clear cold water from the Valbona River.
The Valbona Valley
The Valbona Valley
The Valbona Valley
The Valbona Valley
The Valbona Valley
I finally headed back to my room for some much needed sleep as it had been quite a long day, what with two bus rides, a boat ride & a small hike!
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