I awoke at 6am & left the hotel for a coffee around the corner before packing & checking out at 6:45am. I walked along Vangjel Pando Rd where all the 'furgons' (small minibuses) were waiting & enquired about one to Gjirokastra. One was more or less ready to leave & so I threw my backpack on board. We left at 7:10am & travelled through Mesopotam & Bistrice, it was quite hilly terrain & the roads were quite bad in places. At Jorgucat (I think?) it flattened out to a nice tarmac road.
I knew it would only take about 90 minutes to arrive, but for whatever reason I never did see a sign for Gjirokaster. We did stop on the outskirts of town but I wasn't aware at the time! After we got going again, & after a few minutes I saw the sign for Gjirokastra with a red line through it, so I knew we where just leaving the town! I informed the driver who clearly then started to apologise (& laugh a little!) He soon flagged down another minibus going in the opposite direction & I jumped on board to everyone’s amusement! In all the commotion I handed over a 500 lek note for payment from Saranda. He never gave any change back & initially I thought I was being overcharged? But when I looked at my ticket later I noticed a fee of 510 lek. When I jumped off the minibus I dropped my sunglasses & trod on them which wasn't a great start to the day!
I ended up walking down the main street with a young student guy who had been on the minibus with me. He's English was quite good & before too long a lady shouted from the balcony of a hotel wanting to know if I needed a room. I asked the young student guy to do the bartering & she seemed to come down from 20 Euros to 15 Euros? I decided not to bother & walk around for a while. I said my goodbyes to the young student, & visited a couple of other hotels but they seemed to want between 20 & 30 Euros. In the end I headed back in the direction I came & settled for the hotel called 'The First' (near football stadium), they wanted 2000 lek (around 15 Euros!). The room was fine & had air-conditioning with free Wi-Fi which was great & I later learned the price included breakfast.
After a nice cold shower I decided to head into town & find some new sunglasses. I found a stall & bought a pair (Ray Bans?) for 500 lek. I then decided to have something to eat before my hike up to the castle. At the end of Shitatori Rd, (near roundabout) I spotted a place called 'Taverne Laberia'. I sat down at a table outside & the owner who was butchering some meat came over to me. I asked if he had a menu, (a little stupid I agree!) He said ‘I have lamb, chicken & pork, with salad & cheese - This is my menu! What is it you like’? I laughed out aloud! I said I will have the lamb & salad please. He said ‘Good Choice’! It was really tasty & the lamb had really crispy skin. The cheese salad was only 200 lek, but the plate of lamb was 500 lek, which I thought was quite expensive, but there was plenty of it.
After taking a good look around the castle, I then headed part the way back down the road before making my way over to Dunavat Quater & Topulli House. I then continued up the very steep cobbled hill, passing many dwellings, where a few of the locals greeted me with a friendly 'Hello'! I was actually quite amazed at how incredibly steep it was! At the very top, I took a right & started climbing up the mountainside. Before long I past a 'make-shift' house/farm where a young local came out to greet me. He clearly had very little in the way of home comforts. I noticed he had a small flock of sheep penned in around his home. I continued to walk to the top of the mountain & soaked up the views.
I later headed back down the mountainside & slowly made my way to the Old Bazar Quater & St. Sotiri Church & took a few more photographs. I eventually made my way back down to the cafes & gift shops, where I had a chat with an old man who was sat carving a fish out of some kind of stone? He then proceeded to show me around his shop. I then visited the oldest gift shop in Gjirokastra (so the sign says outside!) & had a chat with a very nice lady who spoke very good English. I mentioned how hot it was, she then informed me it was 35 degrees & said the winters can get really cold. I was quite shocked when she told me it can get as cold as -12 degrees. The lady then showed me some photographs she had taken one winter, the place looked really picturesque with all the snow.
Once back in town I decided to look for a restaurant, but struggled to find anywhere that was open? (It was a Sunday) In the end I settled for a fast food place near my hotel & had a couple of byreks (80 lek each). I had a meat one which was nice & a spinach one which wasn't! Whilst I was sat outside eating I was interrupted by four very young kids who were clearly living in extreme poverty which wasn't nice to see & they soon started to ask me for money which always makes for an awkward situation. They seemed happy with my spinach byrek & so I left them to it!
Later, after a rest back at my hotel I decided to pop out (about 8pm) for a coffee & was amazed at the number of people walking around. It was the busiest I have seen Albania so far!
I plan to set off early again in the morning to catch a minibus to Permeti.
I knew it would only take about 90 minutes to arrive, but for whatever reason I never did see a sign for Gjirokaster. We did stop on the outskirts of town but I wasn't aware at the time! After we got going again, & after a few minutes I saw the sign for Gjirokastra with a red line through it, so I knew we where just leaving the town! I informed the driver who clearly then started to apologise (& laugh a little!) He soon flagged down another minibus going in the opposite direction & I jumped on board to everyone’s amusement! In all the commotion I handed over a 500 lek note for payment from Saranda. He never gave any change back & initially I thought I was being overcharged? But when I looked at my ticket later I noticed a fee of 510 lek. When I jumped off the minibus I dropped my sunglasses & trod on them which wasn't a great start to the day!
I ended up walking down the main street with a young student guy who had been on the minibus with me. He's English was quite good & before too long a lady shouted from the balcony of a hotel wanting to know if I needed a room. I asked the young student guy to do the bartering & she seemed to come down from 20 Euros to 15 Euros? I decided not to bother & walk around for a while. I said my goodbyes to the young student, & visited a couple of other hotels but they seemed to want between 20 & 30 Euros. In the end I headed back in the direction I came & settled for the hotel called 'The First' (near football stadium), they wanted 2000 lek (around 15 Euros!). The room was fine & had air-conditioning with free Wi-Fi which was great & I later learned the price included breakfast.
After a nice cold shower I decided to head into town & find some new sunglasses. I found a stall & bought a pair (Ray Bans?) for 500 lek. I then decided to have something to eat before my hike up to the castle. At the end of Shitatori Rd, (near roundabout) I spotted a place called 'Taverne Laberia'. I sat down at a table outside & the owner who was butchering some meat came over to me. I asked if he had a menu, (a little stupid I agree!) He said ‘I have lamb, chicken & pork, with salad & cheese - This is my menu! What is it you like’? I laughed out aloud! I said I will have the lamb & salad please. He said ‘Good Choice’! It was really tasty & the lamb had really crispy skin. The cheese salad was only 200 lek, but the plate of lamb was 500 lek, which I thought was quite expensive, but there was plenty of it.
Lunch in Gjirokastra
Restaurant 'Taverne Laberia'
Gjirokastra, with the Lunxheria Mountains in the distance
After lunch I headed off towards the castle (I noticed a few locals in town selling local currency). I didn't stop at any of the shops as I planned to visit them on my return. I paid the 200 lek at the main gate & had a good wander around. As I was walking out of the main gate at the north end I spotted a lady who asked if I wanted to see the Armaments Museum (200 lek), I agreed & she unbolted a door & I had a good look around (no descriptions in English though). I also visited the prison cells which were fascinating. I then ventured back out the main gate & walked as far as the clock tower & took some photographs. It was all very peaceful & not a single tourist in sight!
The steep road leading to Gjirokastra Castle
The steep road leading to Gjirokastra Castle
View of Gjirokastra as you climb
The amazing houses of Gjirokastra
A prison cell - The Garrison inside Gjirokastra Castle
An American spy plane at Gjirokastra Castle
Gjirokastra Castle & Clock Tower
After taking a good look around the castle, I then headed part the way back down the road before making my way over to Dunavat Quater & Topulli House. I then continued up the very steep cobbled hill, passing many dwellings, where a few of the locals greeted me with a friendly 'Hello'! I was actually quite amazed at how incredibly steep it was! At the very top, I took a right & started climbing up the mountainside. Before long I past a 'make-shift' house/farm where a young local came out to greet me. He clearly had very little in the way of home comforts. I noticed he had a small flock of sheep penned in around his home. I continued to walk to the top of the mountain & soaked up the views.
The amazing slate roofs of Gjirokastra
I later headed back down the mountainside & slowly made my way to the Old Bazar Quater & St. Sotiri Church & took a few more photographs. I eventually made my way back down to the cafes & gift shops, where I had a chat with an old man who was sat carving a fish out of some kind of stone? He then proceeded to show me around his shop. I then visited the oldest gift shop in Gjirokastra (so the sign says outside!) & had a chat with a very nice lady who spoke very good English. I mentioned how hot it was, she then informed me it was 35 degrees & said the winters can get really cold. I was quite shocked when she told me it can get as cold as -12 degrees. The lady then showed me some photographs she had taken one winter, the place looked really picturesque with all the snow.
Man carving a fish out of stone in Gjirokastra
Once back in town I decided to look for a restaurant, but struggled to find anywhere that was open? (It was a Sunday) In the end I settled for a fast food place near my hotel & had a couple of byreks (80 lek each). I had a meat one which was nice & a spinach one which wasn't! Whilst I was sat outside eating I was interrupted by four very young kids who were clearly living in extreme poverty which wasn't nice to see & they soon started to ask me for money which always makes for an awkward situation. They seemed happy with my spinach byrek & so I left them to it!
Byreks
Later, after a rest back at my hotel I decided to pop out (about 8pm) for a coffee & was amazed at the number of people walking around. It was the busiest I have seen Albania so far!
I plan to set off early again in the morning to catch a minibus to Permeti.
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