In the morning I left my very sweaty room in my hotel & headed for the bus station. When I arrived I ordered a coffee at the cafe inside (very friendly staff), & just sat around until my 6am bus to Berati arrived. I was actually amazed at the amount of people around the station & market area as it was still only 5:30am, Albanians certainly do rise early! I was soon approached by a friendly old man who advised me that the bus was actually due to arrive at 6:30am. The kind old man then suggested we go to the nearby byrek take away place (behind the bus station). I ordered what I can only describe as filo pastry stuffed in a bread bun! It was quite tasty & very filling if not a little greasy, but for 40 lek you can’t complain!
My bus arrived & we left on time, (it had a sign for 'Kucove' at the front). As we were leaving the outskirts of town, along Nentori Rd (at a roundabout with a large monument) I did notice a lot of minibuses parked, & thought perhaps this is where I would have caught a minibus to Berati? We drove through a place called Peqin where I spotted the walls of the local castle. When we reached Ura Vaigurore I was told by the bus driver to jump off with another passenger (after paying a fee of 300 lek) We both then crossed the road & jumped into a waiting minibus. It was good I had someone with me, as I noticed there were plenty of taxi drivers hanging around & they all asked if I wanted a taxi to Berati. (Ura Vaigurore is at a junction which one way goes to Kucove & the other to Berati.) When I arrived in Berati I paid the minibus driver 100 lek & the driver clearly had no intentions of handing me back any change!
I made my way to 'Berati Hotel' (near the Leaden Mosque) & was greeted by a lady who spoke very good English. She informed me the only room she had left was 20 Euros a night. I thought this was a little expensive & so decided to look for somewhere cheaper. I crossed the road to the hotel called 'Tomori' & was suitably told they were fully booked. I decided I couldn't be bothered to look around anymore & headed back to 'Berati Hotel' but was then told my room would not be ready until 2pm (It was about 10am). Apparently 'check-out' is 12am & they needed two hours to clean my room! I decided to check in & order some breakfast (omelette & Greek salad), which was very good & reasonably priced. I left my backpack in the hotel kitchen & headed off to explore Berati.
I walked as far as the football stadium (east) & explored some of the side streets. I then visited the restaurant called 'Pasarela' (upstairs) & ordered a cool beer & soaked up the amazing views overlooking the Mosque & Cathedral. After my beer I headed up the cobbled street to the castle (100 lek entrance fee), & I had a good look around. The old buildings had bags of character & the views overlooking Berati were certainly worth 100 lek. Yet again, I hardly saw any other tourists.
I headed back down the cobbled street & visited the museum but when I arrived I noticed the sign saying 'Closed from 1 till 4'. I then decided to head towards Gorica Bridge & hike up to see St Michael church, unfortunately when I arrived the gate was locked. I then crossed Gorica Bridge to reach the other side of the bank, but it soon became apparent it was just a big dumping ground for rubbish, so I headed back! I made my way back towards my hotel & purchased some very lovely byreks, & then just sat outside & watched the world go by for a while.
When I arrived back at my hotel at 4pm I finally saw my room for the very first time. It was very smart, & came with a very nice balcony. It was great to blast out the air conditioning after spending the previous night in an oven!
I went out for a walk in the evening around Berati, & as ever there were hoards of locals walking up & down enjoying the remainder of the day. I headed back to my hotel & ordered some food (nothing special) & watched the Spain v France football match.
I plan to sleep in tomorrow & then catch the local bus to Corovoda, (I haven't decided if I should jump off at Policani?)
Early morning at Elbasani bus station
Early morning at Elbasani bus station
My bus arrived & we left on time, (it had a sign for 'Kucove' at the front). As we were leaving the outskirts of town, along Nentori Rd (at a roundabout with a large monument) I did notice a lot of minibuses parked, & thought perhaps this is where I would have caught a minibus to Berati? We drove through a place called Peqin where I spotted the walls of the local castle. When we reached Ura Vaigurore I was told by the bus driver to jump off with another passenger (after paying a fee of 300 lek) We both then crossed the road & jumped into a waiting minibus. It was good I had someone with me, as I noticed there were plenty of taxi drivers hanging around & they all asked if I wanted a taxi to Berati. (Ura Vaigurore is at a junction which one way goes to Kucove & the other to Berati.) When I arrived in Berati I paid the minibus driver 100 lek & the driver clearly had no intentions of handing me back any change!
I made my way to 'Berati Hotel' (near the Leaden Mosque) & was greeted by a lady who spoke very good English. She informed me the only room she had left was 20 Euros a night. I thought this was a little expensive & so decided to look for somewhere cheaper. I crossed the road to the hotel called 'Tomori' & was suitably told they were fully booked. I decided I couldn't be bothered to look around anymore & headed back to 'Berati Hotel' but was then told my room would not be ready until 2pm (It was about 10am). Apparently 'check-out' is 12am & they needed two hours to clean my room! I decided to check in & order some breakfast (omelette & Greek salad), which was very good & reasonably priced. I left my backpack in the hotel kitchen & headed off to explore Berati.
I walked as far as the football stadium (east) & explored some of the side streets. I then visited the restaurant called 'Pasarela' (upstairs) & ordered a cool beer & soaked up the amazing views overlooking the Mosque & Cathedral. After my beer I headed up the cobbled street to the castle (100 lek entrance fee), & I had a good look around. The old buildings had bags of character & the views overlooking Berati were certainly worth 100 lek. Yet again, I hardly saw any other tourists.
The Orthodox Cathedral at Berati
The Leaden Mosque in Berati -1555 (Photograph taken from the restaurant - 'Pasarela')
The white houses of Berati
The white houses of Berati, (leading to the castle)
Inside the fortress walls of Berati
The Holy Trinity Church - 13th century, (within the fortress walls)
Views from the castle looking over Berati
I headed back down the cobbled street & visited the museum but when I arrived I noticed the sign saying 'Closed from 1 till 4'. I then decided to head towards Gorica Bridge & hike up to see St Michael church, unfortunately when I arrived the gate was locked. I then crossed Gorica Bridge to reach the other side of the bank, but it soon became apparent it was just a big dumping ground for rubbish, so I headed back! I made my way back towards my hotel & purchased some very lovely byreks, & then just sat outside & watched the world go by for a while.
When I arrived back at my hotel at 4pm I finally saw my room for the very first time. It was very smart, & came with a very nice balcony. It was great to blast out the air conditioning after spending the previous night in an oven!
I went out for a walk in the evening around Berati, & as ever there were hoards of locals walking up & down enjoying the remainder of the day. I headed back to my hotel & ordered some food (nothing special) & watched the Spain v France football match.
I plan to sleep in tomorrow & then catch the local bus to Corovoda, (I haven't decided if I should jump off at Policani?)
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