Monday 18 June 2012

Day 6 - Gjirokastra to Përmeti

I was up early again (6am), & didn't bother with breakfast at my hotel. I headed off along Shtatori road where the minibuses hang around & asked about a bus to Përmeti. I was pointed to a minibus nearby & was told it would leave at 7:30am. I popped into one of the nearby coffee shops as I had plenty of time for a coffee. I later threw my backpack into the back of minibus before realising I was going to have to stand during the trip! (There was somebody already standing up at the back where the entire luggage was stashed!) Shortly after we set off a kind lady allowed me to squeeze next to her which was nice of her, although I did have a seat belt clasp stuck up my backside! A few locals later jumped off half way, which then gave me a seat which was a relief. (There was a police check near the start of our trip, but they did not seem bothered about the man in the back with the entire luggage!)

When we arrived in Përmeti (outskirts), the driver announced to the other passengers that they all had to get off the bus & find alternative travel arrangements? I had no idea what was really happening, but there was a lot of shouting and all the passengers were eventually transported to a waiting taxi minibus. I assumed they had all paid to go elsewhere initially, although I couldn't understand as the name plate on the minibus did say Përmeti (Gjirokastra on flip side). After all the commotion the driver took me (& only me) into the centre of Përmeti where I paid the sum of 350 lek. (The minibus actually left Gjirokastra at 7:20am & I arrived in Përmeti at 8:30am.)

As soon as I jumped off the minibus I noticed the Alvero Hotel across the road (mentioned in my guide book) so I settled for this. It was 1500 lek for the nicest/cleanest room yet, which had amazing views overlooking the Vjosa River from the balcony.


The Vjosa River in Përmeti


One thing that I have become more & more aware of is the Albanian greetings. The women kiss each other on the cheeks four times which is rather nice. The men seem to handshake one another a lot when they meet up in bars etc. The 'nod of the head' horizontally to mean 'Yes' can be a little confusing at times! I have also noticed on my travels many half-finished houses in the countryside? Another funny sight (only as an English speaker) is the word 'SHITET' you see all over Albania meaning 'For Sale'! (Maybe I just need to grow up!)

After settling in my hotel, I later crossed the road & visited the nearby restaurant. I ordered cheese & pork omelette (300 lek) which was absolutely lovely. I also ordered mulberry raki (100 lek) which wasn't so lovely! (But I really just wanted to try it) Afterwards I walked around the north of the town & climbed the steps up the huge boulder which had some great views overlooking the town. I later then started to head south out of the town before realising I had lost my newly bought sunglasses! I soon figured out I had probably dropped them when I was on top of the boulder! I returned & found them at the top as I initially thought & when I reached the bottom again the local man painting the nearby building (that had seen me the first time around) started laughing when I explained my story!



Cheese & pork omelette with mulberry raki


The huge boulder in Përmeti


The Vjosa River in Përmeti (View from the top of the huge boulder)


A very old Mercedes in Përmeti


I was still hungry so I visited the nearby 'Pizza Plaza' restaurant & ordered biftek (beef steak fried), which came with chips & salad, which was delicious (500 lek). The restaurant had first class service delivered by a nice lady, & so I asked her about directions to the nearby village of Leusa. She pointed me in the basic direction & I decided I would head this way after my meal.

I walked the length of the town heading south & continued past the tower blocks across a dirt track & before too long I was walking parallel with the Vjosa River. However, after so long I figured out I wasn't going in the right direction for Leusa. Nevertheless I decided to keep going & enjoyed the views overlooking the Vjosa River (There was a very basic café on route, but I decided not to stop). After about an hour of walking I came across a large iron bridge that I crossed which took me to the other side of the Vjosa River & onto a main road. (You see a sign for the hotel 'Nemercka'). From here I started to head back to Permeti, walking past plenty of vineyards along the way, it was a very pleasant walk. (From the iron bridge I took a photograph of the other bridge, that's about to collapse! Which made for a great photograph, with the Vjosa River in the back drop.)



Bee hives near the Vjosa River in Përmeti


Bridge over the Vjosa River in Përmeti


Bridge over the Vjosa River in Përmeti (In need of some repair!)


Cuddly toy in the countryside of Përmeti (Seen all over Albania)


A working donkey in Përmeti



I returned to my hotel (a little tired) at about 3:30pm & sat outside with a coffee watching all the locals enjoying themselves, playing alongside & in the river.

I later went out in the evening at about 8pm & had a brief walk around the town; again I was amazed at how many people there were just walking around. I visited the restaurant opposite my hotel again & ordered Korca sausages & salad whilst I watched the first half of the football match between Czech Republic & Spain in the European Cup. In the main square one of the bars had a large projector screen displaying the other match that was being played with a large crowd watching.

I plan to be up early again in the morning as I have been told the first minibus to Korca is at 7am.


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