Thursday, 28 June 2012

Day 16 - Durrës to Shkodër (incl Mesi)

Unfortunately I could not have a shower or even a wash this morning as there still wasn't any water! I'd planned just to leave without having any breakfast, but as I was walking down the stairs a man appeared (who clearly looked like the twin brother of the hotel owner), so I decided to follow him into the bar area & have my breakfast after all. It did feel slightly awkward & he clearly knew of the previous day's events. He seemed very keen to take the keys from me before handing me a coffee & a croissant, but no orange juice this time!

Before leaving I used the nearby toilet in the bar area, (knowing it would not flush). I wasn't going to say anything but as I was about to leave I thought I would. The man looked a little confused at first, then disappeared briefly, before coming back to tell me all was fine now! He could see I looked baffled, which is when he took me to the outside hallway & showed me a large switch which turns the water on & off! He seemed to think I should have already known this! I explained the water went off at 10pm last night, & how was I supposed to know about this switch! I just shook my head in disbelief & left, but not before handing him the postcard his brother had given me yesterday with my thoughts written down about this crazy place!

When I arrived at the bus station, I could see the bus for Shkodër already waiting to leave & so I jumped on board, it left on time at 7:30am (400 Lek). Along the way I spotted what appeared to be some Chinese fishing nets along the river bank, I also noticed quite a few signs for camp sites. I arrived in Shkodër at 10am, (next to the football stadium & market area). I was hoping to somehow continue to Komani, as I had no intentions of staying in Shkodër. I had a coffee (whilst being bombarded by taxi drivers wanting to take me to Montenegro!) at one of the nearby cafes.

After my coffee I headed off around the stadium & I asked a few locals about catching a bus to Komani. They pointed me in the direction of some parked minibuses, but they were all going elsewhere. I was later given further directions, (whilst stopping for a beer & asking again!) before finally finding the location of where the actual minibus leaves for Komani. (If I remember the road is called 'Marlin Barleti'.) However, a local fruit stall seller informed me there were no more buses until 7am tomorrow.




The market in Shkodër



I soon realised I would have to spend the night in Shkodër, & so decided to look for a hotel. I visited the nearby place called 'Tradita' (Skenderbeg Rd) & was greeted by a very friendly young lady. I asked her if she could confirm there were no more buses to Komani. (As I was a little shocked at their asking price of 35 Euros for a room!) She had to consult other staff members & somebody else on the telephone? At first it was suggested there was a minibus leaving for Komani at 1pm, but then it was later confirmed this wasn't to be! The minibus was confirmed at 6:30am tomorrow ('Marlin Barleti')

I was a little disappointed my room did not have air conditioning, (just a fan). When I questioned this with the staff, they just told me the building is 'very traditional', I was clearly paying for all the décor. It was all very nice, but I would't rate the location.

After settling in I later rented one of the hotels bicycles (included in my 35 Euros!) so I could explore Shkodër, (the tyres needed a good pump first!) I first cycled in the direction of Rozafa Castle & left my bike at the bottom of the hill (outside a café) & grabbed a bite to eat before walking up. At the top, the views were amazing & the castle remains were very impressive (especially the Cathedral). When I reached the bottom of the hill again, I noticed my bike had vanished! (I panicked a little) The café owner soon appeared & led me around the back where she & her family lived & presented me with my bike! Apparently they were concerned it may have been stolen as it wasn't locked up. It did have a lock attached but the hotel staff never gave me a key! I thanked the family for their kindness, & jumped back on my bike & headed in the direction of Mesi.



Rozafa Castle in Shkodër (Most remains are Venetian & Ottoman)


Overlooking Shkodër from Rozafa Castle


13th Century Cathedral in Rozafa Castle in Shkodër



It was a wonderful bike ride out to Mesi, albeit a little dusty & bumpy in parts. I passed a few factories, & was amazed at the amount of other cyclists I saw, (most were female & probably worked in the factories). On arrival in Mesi, I took a few photographs of the bridge (it was a shame about the surrounding area), before riding back to Shkodër. When I arrived back, I decided to ride around the centre of Shkodër for about an hour & stopped at the mosque & the Orthodox Church for a while.



The Mesi Bridge - 18th century


 Shkodër


I finally cycled back towards my hotel & visited a nearby take away place & stuffed myself with lamb chops with a double helping of chips & salad! It was all very nice, but I got the impression, things were a little more expensive in Shkodër?

Whilst back at my hotel room, I was suffering a little with the heat. The room was like an oven, even with the fan so I decided to steal another from one of the other rooms!

Really looking forward to my boat ride on Lake Koman tomorrow!


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